Pastures, Pints, and Poetry: Traveling Ireland the Slow Luxe Way

Smithwicks Experience

Pronounced “smid - icks” not “smith wicks”

There’s a quiet kind of magic to landing in a place that already feels like a story. We arrived in Dublin on a warm morning, fresh from a nonstop flight out of Cleveland (which was quite nice for a change coming from Columbus…) and were welcomed just past customs by Denis who would be our  private driver and guide for the trip.

From the airport, we set off for Kilkenny with a stop first at the Smithwick’s Experience for a tour that brought the story of Ireland’s oldest ale to life. Set in a restored Victorian brewing house, the tour blended storytelling, local heritage, and sensory immersion (ending, of course, with a  tasting). I wasn’t aware that beer was invented originally on accident by monks, but now I am!

The next morning, we visited the city’s namesake castle: Kilkenny Castle

Grand foyer of Kilkenny castle

With its blend of Norman strength and Victorian grace, it offers not just architecture to admire but a sense of how history still lingers in Irish stone.

We then made our way to Dromoland Castle, a property that felt like it had been lifted from a fairytale and tucked into the Irish countryside. Dromoland is grand and luxurious but without pretense. We explored its walled gardens, wandered tree-lined walking paths (for longer than anticipated because, well, we got lost…). Other activities available were an indoor pool, or trying your hand at archery or clay shooting. Families will find it exceptionally welcoming, yet it still holds all the charm and elegance of a five-star estate.

Dinner that evening was an elaborate affair at the Earl of Thomond restaurant. Each course a nod to local ingredients and refined cuisine with option such as pan seared duck and dover sole. We stopped at the castle’s cocktail bar to try one of their signature drinks while a local musician strummed a guitar and sang classic Irish pub songs. When he left for a break, one of the guests at the castles took to the mic and entertained the crowd with his own guitar skills. The drinks were unique with ingredients such as egg white and honey from their own hive.

An even coffee signature drink complete with chocolate covered peanuts

The next morning brought a shift in tone, as we stepped into Ireland’s living past at Bunratty Folk Park. A recreated 19th-century village, the park is more than a museum but a chance to walk through thatched-roof cottages, smell turf fires burning, and hear stories passed down through generations. My favorite house was the town’s doctor who had a clinic in his downstairs parlor (complete with a blood letting drainage stool…obviously).

Early 19th century home recreation at Bunratty Folk Park

There’s a richness to seeing history in motion, and stepping into a world that still breathes through its traditions.

From there, we crossed the River Shannon by ferry and made our way to Killarney. That evening, we joined a traditional dinner and show at the famous Kate Kearney’s Cottage. My daughter and one of our trip attendees learned a local dance with the step dancers. There’s something about Irish music that stirs the soul.

The Ring of Kerry awaited us the next morning. We began with a proper Irish coffee at the Red Fox Inn—strong, sweet, and bracing enough to kickstart a day of windswept views and hidden gems. We paused at panoramic vistas for soft-serve ice cream, and discovered a hauntingly beautiful abandoned famine-era stone cottage.

My daughter enjoyed feeling the sand between her toes at Carroll’s Cove, a white-sand beach on southern coast. After a stop for lunch, we visited  Kissane Sheep Farm to watch in awe as the sheepdogs moved with skill and intuition, guiding their flocks with barely more than a glance and a whistle. After the demonstration, we had the joy of petting a few of the lambs (my daughter’s favorite part).

Kissane Sheep Farm

Our final destination was Dublin, where we spent our last full day wandering the capital. We visited the Book of Kells at Trinity College, marveling at the illuminated manuscript and the hushed grandeur of the Long Room. A brief city tour gave us a taste of what we’d like to explore on a future visit (for me it was the EPIC Emigration Museum, which we sadly didn’t have time for but now sits at the top of our list).

That final evening, we ended our journey at The Merry Ploughboy Pub with an energetic entertainment dinner with traditional Irish music, spirited dancing, and the kind of atmosphere that makes you feel like you’re part of something bigger than yourself.

What made this trip extraordinary wasn’t just the itinerary, but  the rhythm of it all—the freedom to move at our own pace, the ease of having everything taken care of, and the pleasure of truly being present. Traveling with our private chauffeur, Denis, changed everything. We didn’t have to worry about directions or schedules. We had the luxury of space to simply look out the window, ask questions, take unplanned detours, and enjoy the journey itself. Denis was not just a driver but rather a storyteller, a source of local insight, and a constant, comforting presence throughout our adventure.

My family with our guide Denis from CIE Tours

Ireland has a way of staying with you. The country is beautiful, but  it’s the people, their stories, and love of their heritage that truly touches your heart.

This trip reminded me that travel isn’t just about where you go. It’s about how deeply you experience it once you’re there.

And when done right, it changes you.

Leslie, the founder of Slo Luxe Travel Design and a travel advisor with over 15 years of experience, specializes in luxury, carefully articulated journeys through Europe, the UK, and beyond. From private chauffeured itineraries to intimate group travel, she crafts seamless, soulful experiences that linger long after the journey ends.

When you're ready to explore the world with intention and elegance, Leslie is here to make it unforgettable. Submit your travel inquiry today to get started: Inquiry Form